Elizabeth's Handwovens
Elizabeth's Handwovens Design Process
Designing is a continuous thought process, much like any art form. The ideas come slowly or quickly, move around to the back of my thoughts, then again to the foreground. They change again and again and then finally begin to make it to paper/computer. Sometimes I doodle with crayons or colored pencils, especially to determine colors. Weave structure is altogether different. There are centuries old traditional threading and treadling sequences that follow strict rules. Those traditional patterns may sometimes be combined, sometimes be altered, have the rules stretched or changed, but the resulting weave structure must make a stable fabric suitable for its intended use. What is acceptable for a loose drapey scarf may not work with a towel or babywrap.
Drafting with computer software.
Computer software now aids in drafting out the threading and treadling order, so much easier than graph paper and pencil and makes it easier to change a threading order, find long floats or just change a yarn color.
When the design is finished on paper it is time to sample. The loom has to be dressed with a warp of sufficient length and width for proper sampling of each and every treadling sequence and each and every yarn to be used. Shown below are some photos of an original EH crackle/twill combination threading with 13 treadling options. Full loom width samples of varying lengths were woven using all treadling orders, and with different yarn weights, fibres and colors. Cotton and mercerized cotton in varying weights and colors, 2 weights of silk and one wool were all used. Several usable sample of 2-3+ metres were woven.
Oh yes, then there is the record keeping.....times, calculations, measurements on the loom, off the loom, after wet finishing, shrinkage calculations. weaving length to finished length ratios, yarn and fibre suitability and durability.
Following this a full size item must be woven. Baby Wraps must be sent out for review by competent, confident wrappers. Tableware, scarves, curtains, fabric may have to be determined OK for use/sale.
But then the next design may be on its way, waiting to get on paper and onto the loom.